Inspired by suits from the late 1950s and early 1960sâ€”think early James Bondâ€”Thom Browne’s signature style uses drain-pipe trousers, soft collars, and short, fitted jackets with narrow lapels. One of the hottest new designers of menswear, he here arrives at a Costume Institute Party in a tuxedo of his own making. Note the lack of a cummberbund, an absence which is partially offset by the relatively high-waisted pants. Izzy doubts that Browne can even button his jacket.
Although making use the same fabrics and forms of classic high-quality men’s clothing, Browne’s style rebels against tradition via the use of unusual, youthful cuts. But at least his is a mature, measured rebellion in that it acknowledges and takes seriously what has worked in the past.
Of course, youthful taken too far can become childish (it is no accident that Pee Wee Herman’s suits showed a lot of sock and cuff), and the great authority Alan Flusser has even accused Browne of being irresponsible in his designs. But it is Izzy’s considered opinion that if you are a young man who is not afraid of flirting with faddishness, and you fully understand that Browne’s offerings are fashion-forward, not classic, then you should not be discouraged from taking inspiration from him, though in a less exaggerated manner.