Inspired by suits from the late 1950s and early 1960s—think early James Bond—Thom Browne’s signature style uses drain-pipe trousers, soft collars, and short, fitted jackets with narrow lapels. One of the hottest new designers of menswear, he here arrives at a Costume Institute Party in a tuxedo of his own making. Note the lack of a cummberbund, an absence which is partially offset by the relatively high-waisted pants. Izzy doubts that Browne can even button his jacket.
Although making use the same fabrics and forms of classic high-quality men’s clothing, Browne’s style rebels against tradition via the use of unusual, youthful cuts. But at least his is a mature, measured rebellion in that it acknowledges and takes seriously what has worked in the past.
Of course, youthful taken too far can become childish (it is no accident that Pee Wee Herman’s suits showed a lot of sock and cuff), and the great authority Alan Flusser has even accused Browne of being irresponsible in his designs. But it is Izzy’s considered opinion that if you are a young man who is not afraid of flirting with faddishness, and you fully understand that Browne’s offerings are fashion-forward, not classic, then you should not be discouraged from taking inspiration from him, though in a less exaggerated manner.
I think it looks like his pants shruk at the cleaners and looks absurd. and if you are going to wear pants that short- wear socks!
I dont want to see a bit of leg poking out of the tuxedo! That is very uncouth.
Comment by designnathan — May 3, 2006 @ 4:21 pm
What?? No shorts with sock garters and rollerskates (because it’s Spring, of course)? Thom, I’m disappointed in you!
We must take comfort in the knowledge that, like *all* ridiculous fashion, this too shall pass.
Comment by MissV — May 3, 2006 @ 6:28 pm
I try to make allowances for wit, and humour, and measured-but-well-thought-out-rebellion, but in my heart, I secretly believe that this is a sign of the Apocalypse. Urrgghhhhkkkkk. Such an appealing youngster, too. Why can’t he rebel in a kilt?? Or full Regency splendour? Or a frock coat, with the understanding that people can go frock themselves??? This is just … dopey.
Comment by La BellaDonna — May 4, 2006 @ 11:03 am
I think it looks very consistent on him. (Although I think the pants actually are a bit too short, could use an extra inch or two.) The sockless approach is, as usual with Thom, a nice statement.
Comment by Duffer — June 6, 2006 @ 4:15 pm
The pants need to be a bit short to make sure that the stylish bare ankles are visible. I have a black Tux which I wear sockless with black loafers. I wore socks once, but I had to spend too much time answering questions about why the socks were being worn.
Comment by Tom — January 24, 2007 @ 3:26 pm
No, he can button it. :)
http://www.mediabistro.com/unbeige/original/thombrownecrop.jpg
This is where he could have showed a bit more respect. Wearing socks and just making the trousers no break would have been a wise choice. A little bit of black tie rebelling is expected at these sort of events, sure. This crosses the line into absurdity, though.
That said, I do like his muted choices in suit fabrics and styles. I’d wear them, if I had the cash to spend.
Tom: Loafers with a dinner jacket? :o Eek.
Comment by Jovan Gauthier — May 1, 2007 @ 4:03 am
The sockless approach is what really works.
Comment by Tom — January 26, 2008 @ 3:51 pm
“Uncouth” what an utterly ridiculous thing to say to showing your ankles! Firstly we do no live in Victorian times anymore sweetpea! Secondly, the tiny tux is a very flattering shape – I am a model but I see this suit on all types of bodies! Thirdly – the idea is the tailoring and the fit the legs look short while the sleeves and fit of everything are stunning! Fourthly, the idea of this piece is doing something different, going somewhere else with fashion, if we didn’t take steps like this in fashion then we would still be wearing togas for goodness sack! And finally, who are you to question Thom Brown’s vision of fashion, what right have you to argue with a man who is at the top of the fashion game, with considerable knowledge and skill! Thankyou.
Comment by Jed Perez — March 22, 2008 @ 10:06 am
I know nothing about fashion, and I’m just browsing by..
But this just looks silly, and reminds me why i really don’t wanna know about fashion..
I can’t help but thinking, poor guy, the suit shrunk in the laundry…
Comment by KB — October 6, 2008 @ 9:14 am