Superwool

super wool

Nicholas Antongiavanni, author of The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men’s Style, has written an extremely detailed article on the the pros and cons of super high-end wool for suits.� Among other things, Izzy learned that:

Nearly every suit sold today�certainly those at the middle through the top of the market�is made from wool shorn from sheep descended from just two rams and four ewes.

Antongiavanni comes down in favor of the�techno wools, which are�jaw-droppingly expensive,�but Izzy, like this British tailor, generally prefers hardwearing, sturdy fabric to that which is incredibly soft but delicate.

One Response to “Superwool”

  1. Penelope's Web May 22, 2007 at 9:25 pm #

    Although I love the hand on the Super 100s family, I have to say that, by and large, they would not be my first choice for a man’s suit. Unless they are interfaced within an inch of their lives, or blended with something sturdier (thus negating that initial tantalizing softness and drape), they are not appropriate for the kind of all-day wear to which a man’s suit is traditionally subject. It’s easy to understand the seductive appeal (“…Maybe for the summer ….”), but no; the sturdy linen, or summer wool, or silk-and-wool, would be infinitely preferable.

    What the Super 100s would be fabulous for would be high-quality women’s dresses and dressmaker’s suits, but of course, fabric of this quality is very seldom offered in women’s clothing. It’s a great pity; the drapability is perfect for certain styles of dress, and less restrictive skirts. Unfortunately, although women’s clothes, especially the so-called “designer” clothes, while they may be hideously expensive, are seldom made of quality fabric.

    What male garments would work well in Super 100s and Super 200s? Garments that drape. Kimono styles, traditional Middle Eastern garments (these wools would, I think, be ideal for men’s traditional Middle Eastern garments – both precious in and of themselves, and suitable to the climate of the Middle East), and kilt styles, would show these wools off to great advantage. But for the garment which needs a certain amount of backbone – that is, the traditional male suit – no. I should think that on many men, the trousers would wear through in a month or less. I’m not advocating hairy bulletproof tweeds for Washington in August, but a nice “tropical worsted” should be just fine, thanks.

    For the gentleman who falls in love with the Super 100s and their like, I recommend having a glorious shirt tailor-made. A shirt will take less of a drubbing than a suit, the fabric would make a wonderful shirt for the winter, and the fabric itself will show to advantage, as will its wearer. Even more luxurious would be a hand-tailored robe, which would be just the thing to travel with – it wouldn’t crush, and it would ward off over-enthusiastic airconditioning in strange hotels or on airplanes.