Comments on: Going for Bespoke http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/ Fashion and Lifestyle Advice for Men Wed, 21 Oct 2009 00:49:54 -0400 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 By: qtlaw http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-119181 qtlaw Thu, 13 Sep 2007 04:12:24 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-119181 If you're going to plunk down $3k for a bespoke suit, how about at least getting a nice shirt and tie. With a blue suit, a sharp white shirt would have been perfect. If you’re going to plunk down $3k for a bespoke suit, how about at least getting a nice shirt and tie. With a blue suit, a sharp white shirt would have been perfect.

]]> By: desk jockey http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-118373 desk jockey Sat, 01 Sep 2007 05:09:03 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-118373 1st button “Always” 2nd button “Sometimes” 3rd button “Never” I'm afraid that you've been sent by someone down a primrose path with that "rule". The balance point of all jackets is the waist button. On single button numbers that button is the balance. For two buttons it's the top. For three button jackets it's the center or middle one (and for well-made models of these never the top as it's part of the lapel's roll). So... 1st button “Sure, if you really like the movie Rainman” 2nd button “Always” 3rd button “Not unless you're JFK” 1st button “Always”
2nd button “Sometimes”
3rd button “Never”

I’m afraid that you’ve been sent by someone down a primrose path with that “rule”.

The balance point of all jackets is the waist button. On single button numbers that button is the balance. For two buttons it’s the top. For three button jackets it’s the center or middle one (and for well-made models of these never the top as it’s part of the lapel’s roll).

So…

1st button “Sure, if you really like the movie Rainman”
2nd button “Always”
3rd button “Not unless you’re JFK”

]]> By: mywhimsey http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-117757 mywhimsey Tue, 21 Aug 2007 23:39:29 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-117757 Mark, Jeff and Trey - Thanks for indulging my curiosity - that was extremely informative. I feel like the end of a GI Joe cartoon: "Now I know. And knowing's half the battle." Mark, Jeff and Trey -
Thanks for indulging my curiosity – that was extremely informative. I feel like the end of a GI Joe cartoon: “Now I know. And knowing’s half the battle.”

]]> By: Trey http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-117756 Trey Tue, 21 Aug 2007 22:56:55 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-117756 Jeff hit it on the head - with most modern jackets, it totally screws with the balance of the way the coat is cut. A jacket is not supposed to wrap around you like a tortilla, its designed, cut and made to flatter your figure. That means giving you (for most guys) slightly broader shoulders and a more narrow waist. It's all about making you look proportioned. That's why you don't button all of the buttons. Plus it plain looks funny. Especially 3 button coats - makes you look kinda like a condom. Jeff hit it on the head – with most modern jackets, it totally screws with the balance of the way the coat is cut. A jacket is not supposed to wrap around you like a tortilla, its designed, cut and made to flatter your figure. That means giving you (for most guys) slightly broader shoulders and a more narrow waist. It’s all about making you look proportioned. That’s why you don’t button all of the buttons.

Plus it plain looks funny. Especially 3 button coats – makes you look kinda like a condom.

]]> By: Jeff the Baptist http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-117749 Jeff the Baptist Tue, 21 Aug 2007 19:35:20 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-117749 Generally you never want to button the bottom button on a suit jacket or sport coat. You can't sit down that way and they are often tailored so the bottom button makes the suit hang badly. That said I often use the top two buttons on my suit. It fits fine and spreads the load out. If I just use one, the button thread tends to wear quickly. You do not want a button popping off at an inopportune time. Generally you never want to button the bottom button on a suit jacket or sport coat. You can’t sit down that way and they are often tailored so the bottom button makes the suit hang badly.

That said I often use the top two buttons on my suit. It fits fine and spreads the load out. If I just use one, the button thread tends to wear quickly. You do not want a button popping off at an inopportune time.

]]> By: Mark The Shirt Guy http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-117742 Mark The Shirt Guy Tue, 21 Aug 2007 16:12:00 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-117742 @ mywhimsey The rule with buttoning up suit jackets? 1st button "Always" 2nd button "Sometimes" 3rd button "Never" I'm not sure where the rule came from, but it's a well known rule in the suit world. You can't really sit down with all three buttons done up and it can quite often create a paunch across your stomach if the suit is a little small. If the back of the jacket has a split, it can also make the back of the suit jacket sit strangely. Hope that helped a little! @ mywhimsey

The rule with buttoning up suit jackets?
1st button “Always”
2nd button “Sometimes”
3rd button “Never”

I’m not sure where the rule came from, but it’s a well known rule in the suit world. You can’t really sit down with all three buttons done up and it can quite often create a paunch across your stomach if the suit is a little small. If the back of the jacket has a split, it can also make the back of the suit jacket sit strangely. Hope that helped a little!

]]> By: Seth http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-117714 Seth Tue, 21 Aug 2007 06:25:13 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-117714 I just bought my first-ever suit at age 23. It was from Filene's Basement in Boston, they're having a closeout sale. Supposedly the store's undergoing renovation for a year or thereabouts. I can't wait till I can get an actual bespoke suit. It's hard enough getting a ready to wear one tailored to fit. I just bought my first-ever suit at age 23. It was from Filene’s Basement in Boston, they’re having a closeout sale. Supposedly the store’s undergoing renovation for a year or thereabouts.

I can’t wait till I can get an actual bespoke suit. It’s hard enough getting a ready to wear one tailored to fit.

]]> By: mkb http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-117677 mkb Mon, 20 Aug 2007 20:10:22 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-117677 From the position of his hands, I can't tell whether the bottom button is open or not. From the position of his hands, I can’t tell whether the bottom button is open or not.

]]> By: mywhimsey http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/comment-page-1/#comment-117676 mywhimsey Mon, 20 Aug 2007 20:07:07 +0000 http://manolomen.com/2007/08/20/going-for-bespoke/#comment-117676 Izzy - I claim ignorance and request information. Why is it unacceptable for a man to button all of the buttons on his suit jacket? Izzy – I claim ignorance and request information. Why is it unacceptable for a man to button all of the buttons on his suit jacket?

]]>