Manolo says, Malkovich, Malkovich, Malkovich, Malkovich, Malkovich, Malkovich, Malkovich, Malkovich, Malkovich, Uncle Kimono?
Manolo says, as one would expect the Manolo he receives many of the different catalogs and mailers from the various shoe companies. Some of them, they are quite nice.
Today, the man of the mail, he brought the Manolo the latest catalog from the Johnston and Murphy. It is the good-looking catalog, featuring on the cover the Ziggy Marley, and on the inside the actor Ron Livingston.
As the readers of the Manolo for the Men they know, the Manolo he believes that the Johnston and Murphy they are the good shoes for the money although by no of the means the epitome of the art of the shoemaker.
In the catalog of the Johnston and Murphy, the shoes, they were mostly handsome, but this paragraph of the ad copy it caught the attention of the Manolo.
“It doesn’t hurt to dress like you could be doing your boss’s job (maybe even better). That doesn’t mean dressing old. It means dressing smart. You don’t dress the same for the boys at the plant as you do for the chaps on the board. I’t nice to wear a white shirt sometimes, and wearing the lace-ups on occasion shows you’re not a loafer. Think of your new shoes as a promotion.”
Manolo says, of the course it doesn’t “hurt” to dress like you could be doing your boss’s job! In the fact it is one of the principles of the Manolo that you should be dressing for the job you want, not for the job you have.
Yes, it is to the credit of the Johnston and Murphy that they point out that the loafer it is not the suitable shoe for the wearing to the office, but it is indeed also sad that it has come to this point where the working man he must be told this.
Manolo says, the rules of the Manolo they remain the same: if you seek success, wear the best quality of the shoes and the clothes of the conservative cut you can afford. Make them appropriate for the occupation, but do not be afraid to seem more formal or better dressed than your co-workers and bosses.
P.S. One of the styles of the shoes that appeared under this ad-copy in the catalog of the Johnston and Murphy was this one below. It is the good conservative choice for the young man who is clambering up the ladder of the success.
Manolo says, if the Manolo he can recommend to you only one book about the proper way for the successful man to dress, it is Dressing the Man : Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by the Alan Flusser.
This book it is filled with the sensible advice designed to help the man put together the high quality wardrobe that will stand the test of the time. In the opinion of the Manolo It is the one indispensible book about the fashion for the men.
Technorati Tags: Men’s Fashion
Manolo says, here are the Prada ads from the 1996 featuring the Tim Roth.
You will notice that these clothes, from nearly the decade ago, they still feel fresh and stylish.
This it is what the Manolo he would like for the mens, to pick out the clothes that will still look good in the ten or the twenty years. This it is not easy, but it is possible if one looks for the timeless and the classic.
To the mind of the Manolo, this, it is also the reason why the clothes of the Miuccia Prada, they are worth their very expensive price.
Manolo says, one of the Manolo’s many internet friends he has asked the Manolo the question.
While I dress well for a college student, I must ask what would be good for a man who is short in stature. I am already a big man, and I stick to simple patterns, and darker colors for my dress. What should I avoid when it comes to casual dress to avoid looking shorter than my 5’5” frame?
I’ve been told I should avoid cuffs on my pants, but I remember being told to avoid longer coats which go to the knees as well. Is this good advice, and do you have any more words of advice on perhaps lengthening my appearance?
Manolo says, the travails of the not tall man, they are indeed close to heart of the Manolo, for it is no secret that the Manolo he has not been blessed with the tallness of the stature, nor the particularly elegant figure.
However, like many of the problems of the fashion, the problem of being not tall it is partly surmountable with attitude and proper dress.
The Manolo’s friend he is on the right track with the regard to the rules for the dress for the not tall man. Avoid the cuffs, avoid the longish coat, avoid the clothes that are oversized. (This last bit of the advice, it applies to all of the mens. The clothes they should always be well tailored.)
To this list the Manolo he would add the few more. The man who is not tall, he would do well to avoid any combination of the colors that “cut” the body in the half; the coat and the pants that are of the radically different color. Indeed, the wearing of the monochromatic pallette, in the color of the neutral or the dark, it gives the illusion of elongating the body.
Of the course, the stripes they must always be vertical.
Finally, the Manolo he reemphasizes the tailoring and the quality of the clothes. The nature she does not bless everyone with the handsomeness or the tallness of the David Hasselhoff, and so we must do the best we can to work with what she has to us given. This it is where the good tailor, the good grooming, and the proper attitude it comes in.
Manolo says to the not tall man, take as your guide the Martin Scorsese, who is thoughtful, talented, accomplished and very dapper.
Manolo says, the Manolo he has just discovered the most remarkable blog about the clothing for the mens by the most sensible young man, John D. Erickson. Unfortunately, it is not regularly updated, but you should read what is there none the less. His comments on the pleated versus the flat-fronted pants, they are exactly right.
Manolo says, one of the Manolo’s internet friends has asked the Manolo the question.
I noticed the blazer you linked to has the traditional brass buttons. For some reason, the brass buttons have always bothered me, I prefer the buttons of horn. I find the brass a bit too nautical for my taste, a bit too flashy, and frankly juvenile. However, knowing your impeccable conservative taste, and seeing most of those around me wearing such buttons, I thought that perhaps to wear a blazer without them might be a violation of some unspoken rule. Also, how do you feel about the black blazer and where and in what fashion should one wear such a thing?
Manolo says, it is true that perhaps the brass buttons they are not for the everyone, however, please allow the Manolo to come to the defense of both the lengthy tradition of the brass button, and the need for the occasional flashiness.
Yes, the Manolo he is very conservative with regard to the dressing of the mens, but there are the certain areas where the men they can show a little color and a little flash: the cufflinks, the watch, the ties, and the brass buttons on the blazer.
This little bit of the flash it may not be to your taste, but in the moderation, it is not too much.
Manolo says, few things that the man can wear are as stylish as the well-tailored black cashmere blazer. To the mind of the Manolo, this it is most appropriate for elegant casual wear, perhaps for dining out on the weekend.
Manolo says, one of the Manolo’s many internet friends has asked the Manolo the question.
I would appreciate your comments on the proper way to dress for business casual. I am a civil engineer and I live in Austin, TX where we have summer type weather for 7 to 8 months of the year. In my business dealings, if you see a guy in a suit, he’s an attorney. Ties are infrequently worn by my colleagues, my clients or the government workers and elected officials that we deal with. Some wear sports coats and I like to wear sports coats when the weather is cool (under 80 F). Jeans are worn by approximately 40 percent of the people I deal with. The rest wear khakis or slacks with golf shirts, casual shirts or long sleeve dress shirts. I don’t like to wear jeans, so I always wear khakis.
Most of the US “sunbelt” is similar in that most men dress business casual every work day but Austin seems to be more casual than most. Any hints that you could provide for dressing to look extra sharp in this business environment (without spending a fortune) will be greatly appreciated.
Manolo says, it is a sad day indeed when even the engineers they have given up the wearing of the cravat with their dress shirts of the short sleeves.
Having said this, the Manolo he will tell you that you are in the essence doing the right thing, wearing the new uniform of the lamentably casual American workplace. Manolo says, when in the Rome, wear the well-draped toga. When in the Austin, wear the high-quality khakis and the nice shirt.
The modern reality is that the business casual it has become the standard for most of the American mens, and so we must adapt ourselves to this new situation, even it we do not like or approve of it.
You are also correct in intuiting that this new standard of the dress it is as unforgiving in its way as the wearing of the suit and tie, in some of the ways worse, as before there was always the possibility of distinguishing oneself with the choice of the tie, or the impeccable cut of the suit.
Manolo says, here are some of the rules for the business casual, so that you may both blend in with the fashion, but at the same time stand out for your superior taste.
In the general the Manolo would tell you to wear the high-quality, long-sleeve, cotton, button-down oxford shirt with the high-quality khaki pants, or perhaps the summer-weight wool pants; never the jeans of blue, and only rarely the shirt for polo. As for the pattern of the shirt it should be solid, or perhaps the muted tattersall, or even a crisp bold stripe.
The Manolo he would tell you that this it is not exciting, but you will now set yourself apart by doing the following: Your clothes they must always be pressed by the professional, it makes your clothes look their best. Your shoes, (or perhaps, your boots of the cowboy) they must be shined, or if suede well-cared for, and well-heeled.
Your accessories, your belt, and watch of the wrist, they should be of the excellent quality, but conservative. Leave the Rolex to the stars of the hop and hip. (Soon, the Manolo he will address the issue of the proper wristwatch.)
You should add to this a navy blue hopsack blazer of good quality, or perhaps lightweight sports coat in a muted check or plaid. Do these things and you will stand out from 95 of the percent of the peoples. So many peoples they use the “business casual” as the excuse to be the sloppy.
Manolo says, as you have seen, this it is not the science of the rocket, or the surgery of the brain. This style of the dress, it is the basic commonsense; good quality, conservative cut, and the attention paid to the neatness and appearance of the clothes, without appearing overly fussy. But, then, the Manolo he suspects that his friend he knows all of this already.
Manolo says, one of the Manolo’s many internet friends has taken the exception with the Manolo charaterization of the Vivienne Westwood as a fool.
“…one of these two designers she knows the fashion, and she is serious about it. The other she is the fool. Of this, there is no doubt.”
Uh, I don’t think so. Neither is a fool; but if one designer is conservative, it is Prada. And conservatism in fashion = boring. Sure, you look posh, but you still look normal. It’s called ‘nice/posh normal’, and it doesn’t take a fashion brain to put on. Vivienne Westwood breaks boundaries and is a genius with fabric. If you think she sucks, then I suggest you adjust your taste to suit. It’s the difference between Galliano (VERY nice AND different) and McQueen (very nice but still fundamentally boring) (try comparing spring summer men for both lines and note the more ingenious one), between DKNY (BORING) and Yohji Yamamoto (genius), between Raf Simons and Commes DG, between Margiela and Marc Jacobs. The last two comparisons I leave as an exercise to the sartorially astute reader.
If conservative = great fashion to you then I respectfully suggest that you a. lack imagination and b. are boring.
These are two different spectrums of fashion. One staid and stale, nothing new, nor original (I wouldn’t take a second look at you on the street); the other cutting edge (but not in the clownish or freakish way you suggest). Westwood has been doing this for years, and feted for it. Probably no serious fashion student in say, Central St Martins, will place Miuccia Prada ahead of VW in the fashion stakes. Nor do trendsetting style magazines like i-D.
And no, I’m not a fashion student, nor in the industry.
Think about it.
Manolo says, indeed the Manolo he has thought about it. First, he will reply by posting again the picture of the Vivenne Westwood’s lastest fashion for the man.
Manolo says, the friend of the Manolo she seems to have misunderstood the difference between looking good and calling attention to one’s self.
The Vivienne Westwood, she has long specialized in the fashion for the adolescent who cries out for the attention. The perfect look for the angst-ridden, rebellious teenager, but not the look for the serious adult. The grown up peoples they require the grown up clothes.
Do not denigrate the importance of looking “normal”. Fashion it is about looking good, not seeking out the look of the abnormal, or the outre, or the purposely ridiculous.
Manolo says, the true radical in the serious well-cut, well-tailored clothes is the one whose thoughts, talents, and actions will change the world. The attention-seeking adolescent in the motley clothes of the fool, this person is merely the comedic sideshow.
Manolo says, undoubtedly many of the readers of the Manolo they have been wondering why the Manolo he started an entire blog devoted to the fashions and personalities of the Prada and why he was resistant to starting the blog about the mens fashion.
Here, in this article about the Milan menswear show, the Miuccia herself she tells you why.
By her own words, Miuccia Prada has decided to take menswear seriously. “It’s time to put the avant-garde behind, and analyze what men really want from fashion,” the designer said after her Monday preview presentation of a no-fuss, classical look for next winter. […]
“Let’s face it, men are conservative at heart,” Prada said.
Manolo says, this it exactly expresses the philosophy of the Manolo with regard to the dressing of the mens. The fashion of the man, it is about the classical forms and materials, this despite the long-standing attempts of the confused GQ-reading peacocks to bring about the radical change.
Manolo belives that if the man he can keep his shape, he can wear the same suit, if it is of the high quality and the classical tailoring, from the young manhood into his grave. The same it can be said of the mens shoes.
This it is why the Manolo, he did not initially want to start the blog about the fashion for the man, because it is not as exciting to the Manolo as the shoes for the women. (Ultimately, only the out crying of the masses in need presuaded the Manolo to relent.)
Manolo says, the Miuccia, she knows.
Manolo says, the Manolo he enjoys this site. However, he reminds you that the fashions of the past, they are difficult to enact in the present. Worse, the nostalgia, and the desire to stand too far out from the crowd, it is the seductive combination, one that leads perhaps to the error.
The Manolo, he rejects the term “dandy”, and favors the more prosaic, “well-dressed”. The goal it is to be at all times exceptionally well-dressed, well-polished, and well-tailored, but not to the point where the clothes they are more more worthy of the comment than the man who wears them.
Manolo says, you wear the clothes, the clothes they should not wear you.